His brown olive skin
stands out from the sea of Spanish people out on the streets of Bilbao. They
carry hand-made signs and trade union banners and their chant comes out as
endless waves of “Democracia real ya!”
(Real democracy now!)
He chants along, marches forward, and blends
in among the crowd of granny pensioners, hardline anarchists, trade unionists,
and LGBT activists. I ask him why he’s here and he smiles as he answers, “Where
there is injustice, I fight for justice. Who more should understand its value
than me who had my share of inequities the moment I was born.”
He, Sidi Hamoudi, is a
Sahrawi: “We were simple nomadic people who used to live out of caravan trade
and cattle herding. Now we are refugees, without the possibility of returning
to the land where our forefathers lived.”
Home for him is the
western part of the Sahara desert which has since 1975 been militarily occupied
by the Kingdom of Morocco after a failed decolonization from the Spanish State.
This left behind a political vacuum that made the claim and occupation of
Morocco a swift and devastating move for the Sahrawis.
France and the United
States have supported Morocco throughout the conflict politically and
economically. The occupiers claim that Western Sahara has been an integral part
of their Kingdom before the Spanish occupation in the late 19th
century and has currently left the vast stretch of their homeland in the hands
of the Moroccan military. It is, according to the United Nations, one of the
last remaining major non-self-governing territories.
Born in a middle of a
16-year war, life in the camp was full of difficulties: “I was living with my
grandmother in the refugee camp in Tindouf in the border of Algeria. And one of
my earliest memories is of a mother crying but at the same time ululating. I
asked my grandmother why she did that and she told me that she had just lost
two of her sons in the war but she wanted to show she was proud of their
bravery.”
He first came to visit
Spain when he was 11 years old through the summer program “Vacations of Peace.”
It is a Spanish program which receives Sahrawi children living in the refugee
camps during the excrutiatingly hot Saharan summer months and during which they
are provided much needed medical care and check-ups. He lived during those
periods with a Spanish family and he admits that the process of adapting to
European society was almost a daily process of culture shock.
“Everything was so
different for me then. We only had camels in Western Sahara for transport, so
seeing the city and seeing thousands of cars on the street was exciting but
scary at the same time.”
“I also had to learn
the differences in our societies. During my first days, when I felt hungry and
my foster family wasn’t at home, I would knock on their neighbor’s door to ask
for bread. My family would later apologize to their neighbor for my behavior.
At that time, I couldn’t understand how it was bad since I could do exactly the
same at home because neighbors are like family to us.”
Now at 26 years old,
he came back to Spain to begin a master’s degree. He studies international
cooperation in the public university and he plans to put his education into
good use.
“Coming here gave me a
wider perspective of the world. And of course, with the media as global as now,
we can no longer stop caring about what happens in Egypt, Syria, or in Europe.”
He currently
volunteers in the local NGO, Paz con
Dignidad (Peace with Dignity), and heads the translation unit of
development projects in the Arab countries. He has also become a constant
participant in the nationwide rallies of the Spanish 15-M Movement for
participative democracy and firm regulations in the banking and financial
sector.
Meanwhile, his
homeland of Western Sahara is still occupied by Moroccan forces and there is
till political deadlock in the UN General Assembly on what is to be done. There
has been a wide UN support in giving the Sahrawi people the right for a
referendum on the question of independence or autonomy under the Moroccan
Kingdom. However, this has been continually blocked by the US and France.
When asked what he
sees in his future, what he says is even more poignant: “I just hope to one day
live in the land where my ancestors used to roam, a place I still haven’t been
in or even seen. I’d just like to have a family and have a peaceful life in the
desert.”


